UNDERCOVER A/W 22-23 Womens —Ala Champ
Ala Champ
00:00/

The Gdańsk Shakespeare Theatre

The Charred-Brick 'Black Box' Presenting The Beauty Of Theatre & Performance

GAIA

British Artist Luke Jerram’s Explores The Vastness of Our Earth

Honouring ISSEY MIYAKE

The Legacy Remains: Merging Art & Fashion, East & West, Tradition & Technical Innovation

UNITED PLACES BOTANIC GARDENS

Local and Luxurious, A Melbourne Boutique Hotel That Gets It Right

Naoshima Ryokan ROKA

Designed by Okayama-based studio Nottuo, a New Modern Stay on Japan’s ‘Art Island’

Restaurang ÄNG

NORM Architects Creates A Light-Filled Glasshouse For The Michelin-Starred Restaurant

ANNA PESONEN

A Vessel Of Creativity: The Stylist's Multi-Faceted Approach To Fashion

JAPANESE CRAFTSMANSHIP: BAMBOO WEAVING

In The Quiet Backstreets Of Kyoto's South Higashiya, Find A Master Craftsman

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SS23

As Ever, The Joy Of Movement & Ease of Pleats Prevails

Serpentine Pavilion 2022

Artist Theaster Gates Designs the 21st Pavilion

BRUT-AL

Argentinian-Australian Designer Alexander Lotersztain's Ode to Brutalism

Serpentine Pavilions 2000-2021

A Champ Online Retrospective Of Two Decades of The Radical Architectural Event

PURE FORM

The Art Gallery of South Australia Presents Japan's Avant-Garde Ceramics

KABIRA & KANGRI

The Beauty Of Indian Textile Craftsmanship In ISSEY MIYAKE Sub-Brand HaaT's SS22 Collection

NAKAGIN CAPSULE TOWER

End Of An Era For Japanese Architect Kisho Kurokawa's 1972 Metabolist Structure

MIROKU Nara by The Share Hotels

A Sense of Natural Calm At This Design Hotel in Nara, Designed By Keiji Ashizawa & Fumihiko Sano

UNDERCOVER A/W 22-23 Womens

Cold Flame: Designer Jun Takahashi Explores An Inner Rebellion With Punk Femininity In All Its Forms

March, 2022
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover

This season, UNDERCOVER‘s AW22 Women’s collection was presented again in Tokyo, with designer Jun Takahashi opting for the Kenzo Tange-designed 1964 Olympic Stadium Second Gymnasium setting the stage, providing a dramatic and demanding atmosphere in the acoustic-heavy interior.

Elegant yet dark, titled Cold Flame, the collection opened with six looks completely held in silence, followed by Charles Mingus’ 1963 improvisational classical-jazz piano piece Myself When I’m Real, to an operatic and celestial score from Klaus Nomi’s 1981 The Cold Song reverberating throughout the stadium. Designer Takahashi certainly had the world’s affairs on his mind noting “a punk rebel spirit with thoughts of peace” — with models wearing a badge featuring the peace symbol for the collection’s grey striped suited series.

The collection opened with strapless dresses and jumpsuits intricately constructed with zippers, paired with formidable spiked gold jewellery and completely darkened eye makeup, to visuals of razor blades and camellia flowers emblazoned on coats, and stunning cropped leather jackets embroidered with beaded Japanese motifs — cherry blossoms, camellia flower branches and butterflies. The cropped leather jackets — also abundant with zippers — featured in a series of bright colours that when unzipped, revealed a contrasting tone inside. This reinterpretation of the traditional biker jacket offered a powerful sense of individual semi self-customisation. That’s the Undercover woman, making her own way. Additional bold looks including blindingly bright gold jackets, and poised cropped grey suit sets, plus a favourite standout of sheer laced tops extending as face covers — so chic! Takahashi’s own daughter also walked the runway, modelling a red and green  Scottish tartan full look — opulent with a serving of attitude — and a puffed sleeve cropped jacket in all bead, no doubt hand-embroidered.

Takahashi has always committed to designing for the rebellious and confident woman unafraid to exude femininity in all its forms. In this collection, the puffed and accentuated shoulders, to spiked floral-embellished garments, only reflected the determined and strong Undercover woman. Paired with Takahashi’s unrelenting talent and design precision, the result is ever-unwavering. A truly stunningly-detailed yet subversively punk and pensive collection by designer Jun Takahashi who aimed to unearth the “cold rebellious fire smouldering deep within us.”

UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover
UNDERCOVER AW22-23 Womens © Image courtesy Undercover

Words: Joanna Kawecki
Images courtesy: UNDERCOVER

March, 2022