Nestled within the mountains of the Yatsugatake National Park, the serene scene sets the tone for a nature-immersive experience enveloped with wellness and culinary excellence. At Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, it’s not your regular luxury ryokan, but one infused with rich history, precious natural resources and absolutely unparaleled Japanese hospitality, referred to as omotenashi. 

Located deep within Nagano’s mountains in the quasi-national park at an elevation over 1000 metres, the journey to arrive to Myojinkan is an experience in itself.

Guests can travel by their own car or take the complimentary shuttle bus departing from Matsumoto Station. Through spectacularly-winding mountainous roads, passing stunning greenery and local neighbourhoods, traveling to the ryokan is akin to arriving at a mystical place straight out of a Miyazaki film, one in true harmony with nature.

Holding a history of almost a century, the ryokan was established in 1931 and exudes the ultimate values of omotenashi, exampled in thoughtful details so clever they often go unnoticed. Upon entering the facility, a classical music duet played the Australian national anthem timed perfectly as I checked in. Knowing I was Australian, the planned detail brought a smile to my face and created a warmth with a feeling of arriving home. The staff was acutely attuned to each guest and through this, was subtle to create a welcoming, personalised experience. 

HARMONY WITH NATURE

With 39 guest rooms, an on-site salon bar and lounge, spa treatment room, two stellar dining facilities and various hot spring communal baths framing the outside natural landscape, Myojinkan’s entire site encompasses considered wellness.

The hot spring at Myojinkan is classified as an alkaline simple spring — mild and skin-softening — with a high alkalinity of pH 8.5–9.0 that allows the nature of the water to soften keratin, leaving the skin smooth after bathing whilst relieving fatigue and improving joint pains. Guests can feel revived through all seasons — during the snow-covered cold of winter to the humid summers — all whilst engaging with the changing seasons surrounding the ryokan.

GUEST ROOMS

During my stay in the Zen–Toji Suite, an expansive modern-style guest room with a private hinoki onsen bath, a tatami-floored relaxation space with a floor-to-ceiling glass window directly facing the outside forest, in addition to floor heating located just beside the bathroom. The staff noted that this design encourages repetitive bathing, referring to the Japanese term of toji, or hot spring wellness facility. The convenient proximity of my in-room hot spring bath allowed for alternating between soaking in the bath and resting on the tatami whilst also forest-bathing from the outside view.

Whilst Myojinkan is expansive, their 39 guest rooms (in 10 different room types) allow for an intimate atmosphere. With a storied history of 90 years, the ryokan’s gradual renovations have thoughtfully merged a sense of modernity with updated guest rooms and modern Suites. My Zen Toji Suite featured exquisite woodwork by local craftsman Daisaku Maeda, who crafted the elegant and sophisticated timber console and coffee table. In the bedroom, Sealy mattresses and feather or buckwheat pillows allow for an ultimate nights rest. In the bathroom, amenities are from Japanese skincare brand utilising plant-based formulas. 

Myojinkan’s largest Suite is the Zen Shirakaba Suite, a spacious room decorated with beautiful white birch timber sourced from the neighbouring forest and featuring generously large, outdoor area with private bath overlooking the dense forest. Luxury at its finest.

OMOTENASHI

At Myojinkan, tradition meets modernity — from complimentary valet parking to electric charging stations for vehicles. Multi-linguist staff also ensure that guests from all around the world feel at home. The ryokan accommodates all dining preferences or allergies with ease. 

In true traditional Japanese hospitality, there are two types of omotenashi, one being silent and the other more visible. At Myojinkan, attentive staff accommodate any need while thoughtful unseen elements such as the ryokan’s original evening music played in the main reception area, is programmed at 528 hertz and contains the sounds of trees. This subconscious element of hospitality creates a deep feeling of warmth and relaxation, often unbeknownst to guests. This is exactly the true essence of Japanese tradition and the kind of exceptional omotenashi that Myojinkan and their stellar team perfectly example and which is becoming more and more rare to truly experience in Japan. 

Meanwhile, the National Park surrounding the ryokan encapsulates the beauty of Japan’s exquisite nature. The forest’s wide variety of trees allow for mesmerising views throughout all seasons. In autumn, momiji and kaede maple trees put on a glorious display of colours, whilst in spring, blooming flowers bring a brightness of colour and gorgeous fragrance throughout the property. 

DINING

In the ryokan’s on-site bar and lounge, Salon 1050, guests can enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks upon arrival until 7pm amongst the interior of white Shirakaba trees, allowing guests to feel as if they’re amongst nature even whilst amongst interior comforts. Guests can enjoy sparkling wine, alcohol-free amazake, coffee, Solaris wine, Matsumoto Castle Stout or Pale Ale, alongside additional options of sake such as Suginomori junmai daiginjo from Narai, Nagano. Accompanying snacks including fruit cake and tsukemono pickled vegetables.

Myojinkan’s two on-site dining facilities, French restaurant Nature French – SAI and Japanese restaurant SHINSHU DINING TOBIRA are led by Executive Chef Masahiro Tanabe. Both restaurants accomodate breakfast, the latter serving a traditional Japanese breakfast and the former with a Western-style breakfast. Both Sai and Tobira’s menus change 4 times a year to reflect the seasons and all meals can be accommodated for allergies or gluten intolerances.

SHINSHU DINING TOBIRA, centred around local ‘Shinshu dining’ with locally-sourced and seasonal ingredients, crafts traditional Matsumoto cuisine yet imbued with modern sensibility. The ‘Omotenashi Course’ dinner menu with sake pairing immerses guests into the beauty of the region. During my visit in early autumn, the themed course reflected the season with green momiji maple leaves, susuki grass and chestnuts. It immediately transported me to the landscape witnessed outside.

The region, referred to in the past as Shinshu, holds a noted reputation for its fermentation culture — miso, soy sauce, shio-koji — condiments and ingredients that draw out gentle umami and depth for dishes. Within Tobira’s Chef’s Table dining space alongside the main kitchen, guests can directly observe the chefs pickled and fermented jars utilising locally-grown vegetables.

Tobira Onsen Myojinkan is an exceptional property, rooted in nature and wellness, where guests can truly unwind and recharge whilst soaking in sacred waters and enjoying nourishing, seasonal dishes. The ryokan’s remote location and positioning nestled within the National Park is what makes it one-of-a-kind. The abundance of natural resources in a luxury setting, alongside the ryokan’s stellar and attentive staff executing the art of true Japanese hospitality or omotenashi, is what truly defines Myojinkan as an ultimate destination stay.

For custom design-focussed specialist itineraries in Japan,
contact us on contact@champ-creative.com

Tobira Onsen Myojinkan
8967 Iriyamabe
Matsumoto
Nagano 390-0222
Japan