Within a 140-year-old former traditional Japanese inn known as hatago, the historic and preserved bones of private lakeside inn Fukudaya set the tone for a one of a kind stay. Located directly along the Lake Biwa riverfront in the quiet town of Izumi within Japan’s Shiga prefecture, Fukudaya is an unassuming sanctuary accommodating a single group booking per night. Interweaving local gastronomy, fine dining, exquisite architectural detailing and immensely-deep layers of local history, the pristinely restored property is an undeniable marvel.

As a former hatago constructed in the 19th century the depth of history is palpable, where every crevice and corner features the depth of Japan’s traditional culture and history. During the Edo period, hatago were a type of inn or lodgings for travellers along Japan’s post stations such as the Edo Five Routes and other subroutes. The structure seemingly remains frozen in time due to its immaculate modern renovation. Yet its sublimity is passive and unspoken. It doesn’t shout about its greatness and can only truly be felt through time spent on the property. Only then, naturally, is when the details seem to reveal themselves. The subtle gestures of shadow and light take form and the quiet hum of the earthen, living structure takes place. Take for instance the central irori hearth area that showcases the entire expanse of the building — well over double height — crafted over a decade ago with robust wooden beams and soil-ladden tsuchi-kabe walls.

Situated directly lakeside, the property faces the impressive Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake. Guests are mere metres away from the water, where water activities can be enjoyed or simply observe the still and calm lake in all its grandeur. Just as the lakeside inn notes, ‘With the four million years old Lake Biwa just a stone’s throw away, Fukudaya is a tranquil oasis where the ebb and flow of lake water and the changing hues of the aquamarine sky feel magnified.’

Comfortably accomodating couples or a group of six at most, the property’s diversity of spaces include the front reception and waiting room, traditional tatami lounge area, kitchen, dining room and ensuite bathroom (directly facing the waterfront) on the ground floor.

A wooden staircase guides guests to the second floor where the main bedroom is found, with a wide, floor-to-ceiling glass window directly facing the spectacular view of Lake Biwa. The room features no hanging artwork as the vast lake itself is best framed — a term referred to as shakkei or ‘borrowed scenery’ — further heightening a sense of place.

Inside the upstairs bedroom, guests repose amongst an epitome of exquisite, traditional Japanese carpentry and craftsmanship. From ajiro tenjo wickerwork ceilings, to beautifully-manipulated bamboo detailing, to shikkui precise plastering, to intricately carved ranma timber transoms found above the fusuma gentle, sliding doors. Fukudaya’s founder Fumitomo Hayase explains, “When we took over the Fukudaya building, it had not been lived in for a long time and was beginning to deteriorate. So, in consultation with the craftsmen, we carefully restored it piece by piece, while preserving the important parts of the original building.”

The dining experience takes guests through a journey across Shiga, where ceramics and tableware used in-room and in the dining area have been sourced from local artisans and makers. Each piece celebrates the beauty of the region’s famed Shigaraki ware, a type of renowned stoneware pottery made in the Shigaraki area in Japan.

Fukudaya’s intimate atmosphere reads like a traditional Japanese poem. With the entire building dedicated to one group per day, Fukudaya’s General Manager and Executive Chef Kosuke Yamada is a man of many talents, protecting the quiet and reserved ambience whilst passionately attending to guests akin to one’s home.

Originally hailing from Ishikawa, Chef Yamada’s extensive and illustrious culinary background reflects his skilled approach embedded with attention to detail merging a modern and traditional Japanese and international perspective. His early years in Kanazawa led him to almost a decade at revered Kyoto dining establishment Gion Okamura, known for their Kyoto-Kaiseki style French dishes. The talented chef then joined Amanpuri (Thailand) and Aman Canal Grande Venice (Italy) before returning back to Japan to join Amanemu in Mie, followed by Azumi Setoda in Shikoku. Now as General Manager of Fukudaya, his cuisine is an accumulation of localised and foreign techniques crafting a one-of-a-kind dining experience led by seasonality through close relations with regional producers and farmers. Expect high attention to detail, such as an ancient rice grain asahi served in the evening, whilst a more stocky and dense rice grain inoichi-no-ichi is served for the morning breakfast set.

From stellar dining to exceptional crafted detailing, Fukudaya is undoubtedly one of Japan’s quiet treasures. In a world of heightened visual stimulation and superficiality, here guests leave inspired with a lasting imprint of quietude, calmness and simplicity.

FUKUDAYA
Imazu 76, Imazucho
Takashima, Shiga prefecture
Japan 520-1621

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Text: Joanna Kawecki
Images: As credited